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PostPosted: Fri Apr 29, 2005 3:02 am 
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Walnut
Walnut

Joined: Tue Feb 22, 2005 2:44 am
Posts: 30
“In the bind” or “Holy flying telecasters Batman”

What do you get when you combine a neophyte binding bender and a tight telecaster cutaway?

Frustration!

I’ve been working on bending the rosewood binding for a tele I’m building and every time I get to the “tip” of the cutaway the binding snaps. I’ve tried: more water, less water, no water, more heat, less heat, using a heat gun in addition to the iron to focus the heat, and supporting the backside of the strip with various wooden blocks.

Now after breaking about a half dozen strips I’m hungry for suggestions because at this rate my month’s food budget will be going to binding strips and as much as I love red beans and rice…

Thanks in advance.

Sincerely,
Jeremy


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 29, 2005 3:09 am 
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Contributing Member
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Joined: Mon Jan 03, 2005 7:40 am
Posts: 2694
Location: United States
First name: John
Last Name: How
City: Auburn
State: Ca
Country: USA
Try supporting the outside of the bend with a piece of sheet metal like brass for instance and don't use more water than it takes to inhibit scorching, wear gloves though. How thick is the binding you are bending?John How38471.5068634259

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 29, 2005 5:12 am 
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Old Growth Brazilian Rosewood
Old Growth Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Mon Dec 27, 2004 1:20 pm
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Location: United States

Yeah, I think the "how thick is the binding" is a key question... If you get it between .06 - .07 and use a backer as John suggested you should be able to bend the stuff around just about anything....

I would start with bending the horn of the cutaway then make the rest of the bends after you get that one done. I have tried doing it in different orders but this one seems to work the best to get everything to fit right with the least effort.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 29, 2005 6:11 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Sat Jan 08, 2005 1:26 am
Posts: 2556
Location: United States
Another thing I've done is to bend it "large" first. That meaning, hit it on a 3" pipe then move down to a 2" pipe. Reason is the 3" has more surface area to get it warmer. If you start on the 2" you are really just heating a very small piece and that makes the bend quite difficult.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 29, 2005 10:57 am 
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Koa
Koa
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Joined: Wed Dec 29, 2004 5:34 am
Posts: 1906
Location: United States
Jeremy,
as others stated above supporting the bend usually helps alot. Try using a piece of stainless steel 1" wide, 12" long and about .012" thick to support the bend. You should have sucess!

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remember...

"If it doesn't play in tune...it's just pretty wood"


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